Offline
I haven't used it, but I took a look at that one and about 5 others. The main issue I saw with that press and several others was lack of a quill lock. It uses a dial style depth stop which I heard can be reversed to act as a quill lock but it can only act as one or the other. I lucked into an older model craftsman that uses the threaded rod style depth stop and jury rigged it with a 3/8-16 x 5" carriage bolt to replace the rod, and a push button depth stop nut from grizzly backed by a couple regular nuts. It seems to work well but I won't know until I get my jig.
Offline
Well, it may be a little too late but that is the drill press I have. I have done two lowers on it and managed to only break one 1/8" drill bit.
The other poster was correct. There is no quill lock and the depth stop is reversible.
The only part where I needed to use the depth lock in reverse was for the end mill. What I did was, set the reverse lock so the depth was just below the jig plate to make my first pass. After that, I just set it lower and lower until I got within 1/8"-1/16" from the bottom. Then I switched the depth lock around and set the max depth (using the gage on the side of the jig). I then positioned the mill in the upper left corner of the jig (the start point the video recommends) and went straight down to create a flat 3/8" spot on the bottom of the trigger well. Next, I turned off the drill press. Ran the 3/8" mill down into the spot I had just created and while holding the mill at the bottom of the spot, I reset the depth lock in reverse to hold the mill in position. Next, being very carefull to make sure the mill shaft was all the way in the upper left corner and the end of the mill was not touching anything outside of the spot on the bottom of the trigger well, I turned on the press and made my last passes.
You really need to go VERY slow on this pass because you will be removing more material than you think you might be. Don't want it to jump and ruin all your hard work.